Transport in Cuba
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January 2012
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Trains Toward Disaster / Luis Felipe Rojas

Trains Toward Disaster / Luis Felipe Rojas
Luis Felipe Rojas, Translator: Raul G.

In the life of a Cuban, every promise made by the government seems
destined to become a permanent mockery.

When I see the faces of the highest ranking functionaries, even if I try
very hard, I cannot picture them in the most common of places. Machado
Ventura in a 3 day-long line to purchase a train ticket to travel to
Ciego de Avila? Esteba Lazo traveling 36 hours between Matanzas and
Santiago de Cuba? Although these descriptions have elements of a tragic
comedy piece, it would be good to have them live these realities which
happen to us, the most common of mortals, happen to them, the same
chosen ones as always.

Sometimes just a few examples are enough. The train which covers the
Antilla-Holguin route and which continues towards Las Tunas to return
that same afternoon to the same spot is one of the jewels amid the Cuban
bestiary. Since the Oliver Bridge (just a few kilometers away from the
Antilla station) is broken, travelers must take a bus towards the
neighborhood of Antillita, but if it has only so much as rained and
there have been morning tracks, the driver drops off the passengers a
kilometer and a half away from the cars. The traveler must then
agonizingly and difficultly walk the entire way, carrying all sorts of
baggage, all through their own means. Sometimes a rural farm worker
yokes his ox with a wagon and helps the traveler travel across, through
mud, for the price of 3 Cuban pesos. And the authorities? Good. There
I've seen doctors, soldiers, political science specialists. Never
members of the municipal government.

When the national route trains arrive to Camaguey, the train attendents
rush the passengers amid heavy bags and seated persons in the hallway to
warn that the train has arrived. They tell the people to open their eyes
and guard their baggage. Though it occurs less frequently, the thieves
like to climb aboard the train, put bags on the wagons they see through
the windows, snatch necklaces and commence with the art of stealing.
There is a police station in the area but very little has been done
about it.

In the intermediary stations en route to Havana they only sell a dozen
tickets by reservation, booked 1 week in advance. This method of travel
consists of a long line, which lasts a couple of days, and all
interested passengers must write down their names in long lists. Even
then, if one wishes to travel to the capital of the country you only
have to offer 100 or 150 pesos and when the day comes to board the train
you'll have your ticket in hand. It can also be done while boarding
without a ticket and buying it at the same price from government
officials. If, on the contrary, one does not have sufficient money, then
you have to go through the difficult situation of having to sit in the
empty seats which start getting filled by their owners as the train
stops in their respective posts. And I assure you that despite all these
hassles before reaching your final destination, you will see how there
always were dozens of empty seats which are property of inspectors,
employees, and superintendents.

I have explained these examples without adorning them with the filth,
the insects, and the pestilent sanitation services with which the
government awards "low-class" citizens- nearly 90 percent of the Cubans
who inhabit this island.

Translated by: Raul G.

31 December 2011 Tags: bus, police, train, travel

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